In the last 13 hours, I have haggled over 65,000 rupiah (what amounts to about $7US) for a west Papuan penis gourd, dipped my toes in the Indian Ocean, and because the Indian Ocean might be polluted, I had my toes cleaned by fish in what was probably the weirdest tourism ritual I have ever played along with.  And as I sit here and wait for my airport transfer out of Bali, I can’t help but reflect that none of this has anything to do with why I am here.


Coconut Octopus (Amphi...


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