In the last 13 hours, I have haggled over 65,000 rupiah
(what amounts to about $7US) for a west Papuan penis gourd, dipped my toes in
the Indian Ocean, and because the Indian Ocean might be polluted, I had my toes
cleaned by fish in what was probably the weirdest tourism ritual I have ever
played along with. And as I sit here and
wait for my airport transfer out of Bali, I can’t help but reflect that none of
this has anything to do with why I am here.Coconut Octopus (Amphi...
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